Orkney Island, Ullapool, Belfast Northern Ireland

We rocked and rolled our way across the North Sea to the next stop, Kirkwall, Scotland in the Orkney Islands. Our tour took us across the landscape that looked like something out of Wuthering Heights. The guide said that about 5,000 years ago the island was covered in trees but when people came, they chopped everything down for housing and firewood. The trees never came back. Then the guide described the local sources of revenue. He was a farmer in season but he also worked on the windmill farms. The farms produced more power than the area could use so plans we being made to transport it to other areas. I don’t know how they planned to do that, but it was nice to know they had a source of income besides the tourists and subsistence farming.

What was really interesting to me were the Neolithic mounds and standing stones. They’re still excavating the mounds so they’re not as tourist friendly as the ones in Ireland but the standing stones were compelling. They’re like a small Stone Henge without the cross beams. We hurried around the circle. The weather was blustery; the rain was intermittent. Remember the scarf I bought in Edinburgh? I tossed it on as an afterthought before we set out. I thought it would keep my neck warm. Well, it did but it was so windy I had to tie it around my head to keep my cap from blowing off. I looked like a refugee. But it was a nice tour. I headed back to the hot tub to thaw my toes. I had no idea it’d be so cold. I mean, it’s fall, it’s supposed to be nippy but this was way beyond nippy. The guide said it was normal. I think he thought I was a sissy. I’ve been living in Los Angeles too long. The blood thins out.

The ship anchored at Ullapool, Scotland the next day. We had to take the tender again to get ashore. I got a kick out of it. It was more interesting than walking a gangplank. We got a tour of the town which was interesting. Our guide even sang us some songs in the local dialect. A guide following our group joked, “Oh, now my people are going to expect me to sing.” She was good. Billy and Dawn took a tour back into the highlands which sounded interesting. I wish we’d taken that tour but you can’t do everything. I did manage to buy a sweatshirt with a stylized Scottish breed of cow on the front. It’s great. I got lots of compliments again.

We had an easy channel crossing to Belfast, Ireland. We took the Giant’s Causeway tour. I’d seen so many pictures of it I was excited to see it. Billy and I both agreed that it was sort of disappointing. There was everything I’d ever seen in pictures, but it was all a lot smaller. But we had a pleasant hike down to the Causeway and got both explanations, the scientific and folkloric versions, of how it was created. Once you got used to the smaller scale of the stones you could appreciate the unusual landscape. We had to drive an hour each way to get to it but that was interesting too. I expected to see Belfast as a blasted shell of a city from what I remember of the Troubles on the news. Everything is rebuilt and clean. The countryside is lovely with tidy farms and villages. It was a lovely drive and tour. And I didn’t even need to retire to the hot tub to recover. I was adjusting. Or it was getting warmer. Probably a combination of both.

Gordon at the Giant’s Causeway in North Ireland.

This is an old castle on the way to the Giant’s Causeway. It was a beautiful day. Thank God.

Scotland

Our next stop was Lerwick, Scotland in the Shetland Islands. The ship anchored instead of docking so we had to take a tender (covered lifeboat) to the town. They put us on a bus and drove us around the island. The guide explained that she moved to Lerwick from a major city for the peace and quiet—and safety. She said her 11-yr-old daughter had to walk three miles to her home after school and the woman received a phone call from someone every mile telling her that the kid was safe and on her way. And they’re so out of the way they don’t have immigrants washing up on their shores so they don’t have a crime problem. I was surprised she made the comment. Most people stay far away from the subject but she was definite in her opinion. She loved small-town life. The island seemed to have everything they needed to survive. Maybe they didn’t have a lot of choice but that was okay. We stopped at a Shetland pony farm—ranch?—and were lectured by the owner on the care, feeding, and backgrounds of her ponies. They were little, sway-backed, pudgy things. I’ve never been a fan of Shetland ponies. I’ve always found them to be nasty little critters. One of the idiot tourists went bananas and started nuzzling one of the ponies, exclaiming in baby talk, “Oh, you’re so sweet. I love you so much!” I waited for the pony to bite her face off. But the pony had better manners. It just walked away. I think tourists must add needed revenue for the pony owner. She gave a great talk. I enjoyed it but I steered clear of the ponies.

We were let loose on the 400-yr-old town for free time. I loved the stone buildings and little shops; very picturesque. I found a capelet in a clothing shop that I drooled over but I’d left my credit card in the safe on the ship. I briefly thought of catching the tender to get it but that seemed like too much trouble. I can’t remember what Gordon did but I spent time in the hot tub that afternoon. I needed to soak out some kinks. We met Billy and Dawn for dinner and compared notes. Then the ship set sail on the North Sea again and we rolled around some more. My stomach had gotten used to it so I didn’t get sick. But I still snickered at the discrete barf bags tucked in strategic areas.

We docked in Aberdeen the next day. We saw the exteriors of the college of St. Elphinstone (I think that’s the right name) and other historic buildings. It was a gray day, the buildings were all gray, and we didn’t get to go inside anything. The lectures were great but Aberdeen was a dud for me. The best part was the former fishing village of Footdee. Loved the cottages and lanes that led to the beach. Quaint. The guide said that this beach was a surfing mecca. Must have had to wear wet suits. I was cold all the time. I spent more time in the hot tub to thaw myself before dinner and entertainment. Then back on the North Sea we went for our evening’tumble.

The ship anchored at Edinburgh the next day. Billy and Dawn were on our tour and, as usual, Dawn made some new friends who turned out to be from Sioux Falls, SoDak. We compared our Black Hills gold wedding bands. I loved Edinburgh. I wished we could have to spent the day we wasted in Aberdeen in Edinburgh. I would have gotten tickets to the castle tour if there’d been time. We were shown all the prime spots and got our lecture before being turned loose on the Royal Mile. There was a marathon starting so it was kind of a mess but there was lots of excitement. I got a kick out of all the discarded clothes. It was cool so the runners started out with sweatshirts and pants. As it got warmer and deeper into the race the runners shed their outer layers which were picked up to be laundered and delivered to the poor. Good deal all around. Those Scots don’t waste a thing. We toured the John Knox house then God showed me why I left my credit card in the safe previously. I found a cashmere ruana in a Scotch plaid that was stunning. I love it. I also got a wool scarf that was on sale. I had no idea how smart that purchase was. I’d find out. Anyway, I wore my ruana at dinner that night and inspired envy in all and sundry. Got lots of compliments.

Enjoyed dinner and kept it down when we set sail on the North Sea.

And so to bed. (Trying to be literary).

They think St. Elphinstone is buried in the tomb but they’re not sure. The church looked lovely but it was closed.

Can’t remember who this is a statue of in downtown Aberdeen but Gordon’s in the pic so what the hell.