Alborg, Oslo, Stavanger, Eidfjord, Bergen

Alborg, Denmark was a smallish college town. We toured historic buildings including a monastery built in 1506. The story was: a monk and a nun had an affair, and the nun had a baby. So, they walled up the nun and her baby, alive, around a support pillar. The guide explained that that was why the pillar was so much thicker. Nothing happened to the monk. They probably couldn’t figure out which one was the father. All the women in the tour were outraged, of course (as I suspected were the men), but it’s done. Thank God we’ve come a long way, baby. During the walk we kept running into costumed students celebrating the end of exams or something. They shared their beer with some of our members. It reminded me of Hobo Day at South Dakota State University. The kids were having a ball as they staggered down the street. They kept it up for hours and the parade just got bigger. It was fun. But it was time to go back to the ship. We were on our way to Oslo.

Student and tourist having a moment

Remember me mentioning Pat and Linda? The couple we met on the first tour? When we got back to the ship Pat was sitting in the atrium with a mask on. He explained that Linda’s spit had tested positive for COVID that morning. He tested negative so he was allowed the run of the ship, but he had to wear a mask. Pat said Linda felt fine except for being forced to spend a portion of a very expensive trip in quarantine on the third deck. We learned later that some crew as well as tourists tested positive for COVID. I don’t know how it spread. We all supposedly tested negative before we were allowed on the ship. It explained the daily spit tests and the crew in hazmat suits. But I felt bad for Pat and Linda. Put a damper on their trip.

We didn’t take the downtown tour of Oslo. Wish we had but there wasn’t time. We toured a lovely park with spectacular artwork. Sort of an outdoor museum. Then we were taken to the training facility for the ski-jumping team. Those kids must have a death wish. The guide told us the kids started jumping at age 9. There was also a training ground for cross-country skiing. No wonder the Norwegians clean up in the Winter Olympic games. They earn it. We saw the summer house and church where the royal family spend their down time. I wish we’d gotten inside the parliament, but I’ll make a point of visiting those sites if we ever manage to get back. Oslo is a lovely city.

Art on the bridge in city park
Ski jump facility. You gotta be nuts.

We chose to visit the Fram museum the next day. The Fram was an Antarctic expeditionary ship that is housed in its own building. The Norwegians were famous explorers and I enjoyed learning the history of the ship. They treated us to champagne then we went to another building that housed Viking boats. I learned a lot about exploration; it was fascinating. We were disappointed when we couldn’t get into the Kon-Tiki building. We peeked through the windows but couldn’t see anything. We asked why we couldn’t get in and were told that it was a holiday (boy, they have a lot of holidays) and even getting to see the Fram was a big deal. Kon-Tiki is something else to see if I ever get back.

We went to Stavanger the next day. We took a RIB (rigid inflatable boat() tour of the fjords. We knew it would be like white-water rafting so Gordon and I tried to get the front seats to get the most bounce for our buck. Another couple beat us to it so we sat behind them. Turned out to be good for us. It was cold and started raining. We huddled down behind the couple in front of us to cut the wind and rain. The woman turned at one point and said, “The wind is blowing the rain down the front of my thermal suit. Even my socks are cold and wet.” It was a long trip for her. I enjoyed bouncing around and the close-up view of the fjords was spectacular. I’d do it again if given the chance.

Waterfall in the fjord next to a tour boat.

We went to Eidfjord the next day. They drove us on a bus for an hour and a half to a small cruise ship. We were supposed to have a lovely cruise down the river so we could enjoy the waterfalls in the fjords but it rained again. We spent the entire cruise huddled inside. Then we had that LONG bus ride back to the ship. It was a wasted day for me. I learned that Norway is still having trouble with their roads. There’s little flat land and getting roads next to the fjords is difficult. Those fjords are gorgeous but all you can do is look at them. Farming and industry are hard businesses. We were told that Norway was a very poor country until an American oil company drilled. The company was allowed to take the oil for ten years then everything reverted to Norway. So now Norway has money. Thank you, American industry. I thought the snide comments about American business were thoughtless. The Norwegians would still be trying to make a living on a fishing economy and still be poor without oil. And the Americans lived up tp their agreement. You wouldn’t see the Russians doing that.

We spent our last day in Bergen. It rained again. The guide said it rains 280 days a year. Depressing. Then he asked if anyone in our group had Norwegian heritage and I pointed to Gordon. Gordon explained that his family came from a farm outside of Bergen and the guide said, “I thought you looked Viking!” All of the tourists stared at Gordon which embarrassed him, but he really does look like pictures of the Vikings; aggressive nose, high cheekbones, broad forehead. He should be wearing a wolf-pelt and swinging an ax. Anway, we saw the theater dedicated to Ibsen and statues of Grieg. I was surprised that the arts were celebrated more in Bergen than Oslo. The guide explained that Bergen had been the capitol until some king decided to move to Oslo. Maybe it doesn’t rain so much there. But it’s a charming city. I wish we could have spent more time there. One interesting note: the Norwegians are solidly on the side of Ukraine in the war. We saw graffiti of a dove pooping on Putin’s head.

Putin getting pooped on
Ibsen outside the theater. Rather odd statue.
Grieg. He was a little fella.

We had one more night of dining and entertainment then we had to pack for the trip home. Our luggage had to be outside our room by ten o’clock and we had to be in the atrium of the ship by three a.m. in order to catch our plane to Copenhagen where we changed flights. We landed in Copenhagen at 7 and were dreading the day ahead. We had a 5 and a half hour lay-over before catching a flight to Washington DC where we had another 5 hour lay-over. On our way to check into the next flight I noticed on the departures board that there was a non-stop flight to Los Angeles in two hours. I looked at Gordon and said, “Why the hell aren’t we on that flight?” So, we buzzed over to the SAS counter to see if we couldn’t change flights. We were even willing to pay if we had to. Well, SAS didn’t give us a hard time. They changed our flight and made sure our luggage traveled with us. The flight home was as uneventful as the flight over had been hard. We saved nine hours of travel time and were home in time to feed Gracie ourselves. She was glad to see us.

Scandanavia was a pleasure. Everybody there speaks English. I was told that English is required in all the schools. Most of the people I talked to didn’t even have an accent. They sounded American. Even the Ghanaian barista I met sounded American. One of the guides made a joke about American Imperialism with reference to culture. And he was right. Our marketing expertise is a powerful thing. But it makes traveling easy for someone like me who only speaks one language.

I recommend you save your pennies and travel with Viking. The hotel travels with you instead of you having to shlep luggage all over. I enjoyed the food and entertainment. I got to dip my toe in various cultures. And I know where I want to spend more time if I go back. Good time.

Gdansk, Berlin, Copenhagen

There was a monument next to where our ship docked in Gdansk the next morning. Gordon and I had time before our afternoon tour, so we wandered over to look at it. It was a monument to those who lost their lives in World War II. And there was a bombed-out building down the road from it. We learned that this is where the Nazis first attacked Poland (the Germans called the city Danzig, not Gdansk). We were on the spot where World War II officially started. We watched a group of young people practice marching around for some program or other–we never found out what. And we never found out if they were young soldiers, high school kids, or what. We just saw that they were young and in uniform. They marched solemnly to music on a portable record-player (hadn’t seen one of those in years) to the monument and back to a bunch of chairs. Maybe they were preparing for Poland’s version of Memorial Day. We eventually got bored and went back to the ship for milk and a cookie. Then we took our tour of Old Town Gdansk. Gdansk was leveled during the war, but it was re-built in the 50s to look like it had in the late 1700s. There were fountains in the cobblestoned streets only two blocks from the river. The church was dedicated to Saint Barbara so I approved of that, of course. Amber jewelry is a big seller there. I found some beautiful pieces but I’d already gotten an amber bracelet earlier at a sale on the ship. Maybe I’ll get more some other time. Anyway, I thought the street was charming. And the residents got the feel of an historic city but with new plumbing. The best of both worlds! We were shown the dock where the Solidarity Movement started. Who knew Gdansk was the beginning of so much–World War II, Solidarity…The people were worried about the war in Ukraine. Poland is right next door and they’ve lived under the Russians before. No one I talked to was eager to do it again. Our guide was very proud that Poland had taken in over 4 million refugees. I hope the best for all of them and thank God I don’t live in that part of the world.

We had a short stop the next day at a tiny island called Bornholm, or Ronne, still in Denmark. There wasn’t much to see except for an old castle where apparently terrible things happened. None of the stores were open so there wasn’t much to do. Even the bathroom down by the dock was closed. And when you’ve got a bunch of ageing tourists with iffy bladders, that can be a problem. The guide pointed out the Russian embassy which was fenced off. Lots of Ukrainian flags were flying opposite so I suspect the Russians stayed to themselves. They’re not real popular in that part of the world.

Our trip to Berlin started the next morning at 7:30. We had a 2-hour train trip before catching a bus to downtown Berlin. I was glad we got to ride so much. I’d tripped over Gordon’s feet (not his fault, it was a small cabin, and I wasn’t watching where I was going) and messed up my little toe. I thought I’d just bruised it badly but it’s still painful weeks later so it’s possible I broke it. Fortunately, our traveling buddies handled it. Bill is a surgeon and Dawn is a nurse, so they acted as my medical team. Bill stabilized the toe, but walking was painful. And when we left the bus there was a lot of walking. We went to the Brandenburg Gate and learned about the history of Berlin. We saw the Reichstag, some concert halls, churches, other official buildings, and Checkpoint Charlie. We had sausages, sauerkraut, pretzels, and beer at a local restaurant. The one-man band played German folk tunes. Gordon knew the lyrics to some of the songs, but I chimed in with the “Ja, Ja, Ja, Ja” chorus and waved my stein around. That was my kind of place. I had enough euros for the toilet frau, who happened to be a Herr in this case, and we left for a short cruise down the Spree. There were a lot of pro-Ukraine signs and flags in Berlin, too. Nobody who’s lived under the Russians wants them back. But it was a lovely day except for the broken toe (how can something that small cause so much trouble?). The one thing that sticks in my head was how clean Berlin is. It’s the Disneyland of European cities. I was literally shocked when I saw a small piece of graffiti on the way back to the ship. I’ll have to go back to Berlin and check it out more carefully.

We had another long day of walking in Copenhagen the next day. I was swearing at my toe. Why couldn’t I have messed it up when we had short tours? But I gimped around. This was my chance to see Copenhagen and no toe was going to stop me. We saw the Little Mermaid statue. The guide said she kept getting vandalized and I can see why; she’s easy to get to. The statue is on a rock that’s only about 8 feet from shore. On the way to the Citadel we passed another statue of a local goddess who legend says carved out Denmark by turning her four sons into bulls and plowing as much land as they could in one day. We toured an Episcopal church, the first I’d seen in Europe outside the UK. We walked past the official residences of the royal family that surround a public square. After lunch we toured the official palace. It’s impressive. I’m glad it wasn’t flattened in the war. All the guides in the cities we visited really stressed the war. It’s like history started then. I guess what’s happened in the various countries stemmed from that time. Anyway, the guide stated that the Danes loved their royal family and believe that the royals earn their money. Really nice palace. I recommend visiting it. They put us on the bus and took us to Tivoli Gardens where they say Walt Disney got the idea for Disneyland. It had rides, attractions, and lovely gardens all on a two-block area. We thought about taking some of the rides but it was a holiday in Copenhagen and the lines were long–just like Disneyland! We enjoyed the gardens and had a cup of coffee so we could rest our feet (and my blasted toe). Nice amusement park.

We went back to the ship for another fabulous dinner and evening of entertainment. I was glad we didn’t have a big day of walking planned for the next day. My toe needed a break.

Me and the World War II monument in Gdansk. This is the site of the start of WWII.
Gordon in Gdansk
Bornholm castle–or what’s left of it
We’re at the Brandenburg Gate
Modern art fountain in front of museum. I thought it looked like a bathtub. But I had to check.
Holocaust art
Me and the Little Mermain
Gordon and the goddess who turned her sons into bulls
Entry to the Copenhagen Palace

Sailing

We had a day of sailing on the Baltic so we took the time to get comfortable with the ship and get used to our new routines. The first thing we did every morning was spit 2 ml of saliva into a test tube for COVID testing. I had no idea it took so long to collect that much spit. And it’s hard to spit when you’ve just waked up and your mouth is dry. I learned to drink extra water during my Limitless viewings. Had to pee like a racehorse a few hours later but I had some spit. I got rather zen about the testing. We’d been tested before boarding the ship and if I was going to get COVID, there was probably nothing I could do to stop it. Might as well relax and enjoy the ride. And check out the ship.

There was a small pool/hot tub in the center/top deck of the ship. There was also an infinity pool and hot tub in the back. I would’ve gone swimming but I forgot my suit. Suits were for sale at the spa but when I was free the weather was usually too cold. I thought it would be warmer when we booked the trip. I’d googled weather and learned that it’s usually around 70 degrees in that part of the world in spring. Mother Nature obviously didn’t get the memo because it was usually 65 degrees or lower. And it rained every other day. I should have packed more sweaters and a thicker coat but I made do. Back to ship ammenities; there was a putting course, a shuffleboard court and a running track. Gordon ran every day but I took advantage of none of it. I spent my time recovering from our tours.

The food on the ship was great. The first Viking trip I took was a Danube River cruise. German food was mainly served and I found it fatty and uninspired. Except for the strudels. I really like those strudels. Anyway, on the Baltic cruise there were three main restaurants: Manfredi’s (Italian), The Chef’s Table, and The Restaurant (guess they ran out of names and went with the basics). Manfredi’s is self-explanatory. The Restaurant had a diverse menu. But The Chef’s Table had a set 4-course meal with complementary wines. We had the lamb menu the first night, Chinese food another, and seafood the last time. Each meal was excellent as were the wines. We had steaks at The Restaurant and pasta at Manfredi’s. The wine was always excellent and plentiful which didn’t do Gordon much good since he doesn’t drink but I had a good time. We usually had dinner with Bill and Dawn and compared tours. We always had lots to talk about since we only shared one tour. Oh, and the guys had the Good Old Days to remember and discuss. I’m glad we all took the same cruise. They were fun. Anyway, there were other cafe type places for less formal meals. The World Cafe was open most of the day. The Pool Snack bar served hamburgers and hotdogs (I had one with shrimp and mayo; only in Scandinavia but it was good). There were at least three other areas where you could get pastries and breakfast foods. We over-indulged the first two days then simplified things by having milk and a cookie for lunch. I was afraid we wouldn’t have enough TUMS to last the trip otherwise.

During the day there were lectures that educated and music that soothed. I liked the piano player and guitar player but avoided the piano/violin duo. The violinist was slightly pitchy and it was like chalk on a blackboard–although I was probably the only person it bothered. We played (and lost) trivia contests. There were some smart people on board. The first evening show was a medley with four kids and the back-up band. The songs and choreography were professional and enjoyable. But the show I especially enjoyed featured the cruise director, Heather (wish I could remember her last name). The first show I saw her in, she asked if everybody liked opera. Crickets. I figured we’d be forced to listen to a soprano that was the equivalent of the violinist in the atrium. Just as pitchy but much louder. Well, Heather sang the mezzo aria from Carmen and she was great! She claimed to have sung Carmen in 30 productions all over the world. I believe her. She had it down. Then she sang show tunes with the band. She was good. The second show she starred in was even better. She sang jazz and more show tunes. She claimed to have found her niche. I think she did. She got to design her own cabaret show like a Vegas revue and she didn’t have to screw anybody to do it–like in Vegas. She also didn’t have men pinching her –although I don’t think the men on the cruise could have moved fast enough to grab her if they’d wanted to (the demographics on these cruises skews old). Nice gig. A nice well-paying gig. I asked her how they scheduled her time. Did she work two weeks on, two weeks off or what. She laughed–howled really–and said she worked the entire season with minimal breaks. In the Baltic I guess that means four months on, eight months off but I don’t know. She earned her money.

A pianist called Harry the Piano entertained us with two shows. He did mash-ups of music and told stories about playing for the Queen. The stories about celebrities he’s worked with and for were good but his ability to play a Beatles song as if Mozart had written it was amazing. I’ve never run into anyone else who could do that as well.

There was also a magician who did two shows. I love magicians; I can never figure out how they do the tricks so when he had a seminar about doing basic magic tricks I was in the front row with Dawn. Gordon and Bill giggled at us but I was fascinated. And I felt really stupid when I learned how simple some of the tricks were. The magic is in hiding the effort. I forgot the magician’s name but he was a really nice. We talked about his son learning the business. He was even on the Penn & Teller show. I asked if he fooled them and he said ‘no’ but you have to be really good to even get on. They only take the best.

There was always something to do on the ship. And if you just wanted to read a book and listen to classical music (which I did) there was always the 8th deck reading room with the comfortable chairs, wolf skin furniture covers (probably faux), and great views. I enjoyed my time on the ship.

Dawn, Bill, Me and Gordon–after-dinner coffee at 10 at night. I was only dark about 3 hours a night. Had to get used to that.

Stockholm

Gordon and I bought a Viking Baltic cruise three years ago. We were excited to see Northern Europe, land of our ancestors. Unfortunately, COVID hit, and the cruise was postponed. When COVID finally abated a bit Putin attacked Ukraine. St. Petersburg was taken off the list–too dangerous of Americans and other living things. Viking finalized a new tour that included Gdansk, Berlin, and Oslo in place of three days in St. Petersburg. Most people I talked to were disappointed but I’d never seen Gdansk, Berlin or Oslo so I was fine with the change. On the morning of May 19 our Uber driver picked us up at 5:45. We tried to say ‘goodbye’ to Gracie, but she wasn’t having it. She knows what suitcase means and she refused to let us touch her. What’s the difference between Grace and a vulture? A vulture waits until you’re dead to rip your heart out. I really did feel bad about leaving her. She’d never been alone; she’d always had George before. We thought about putting her in ‘jail’ but figured she’d just be lonely in a cage. Home alone seemed the best option. I just hoped a raccoon named Joe Pechi didn’t invade.

At LAX we were supposed to leave from the American terminal, Building A, but the Uber driver explained that really meant Building B. He showed us on the app that that was true. He was trying to save us steps. Well, we did take off from Building B, but we had to check our luggage in Building A, so we had to shlep anyway. He meant well. When we checked our luggage, we found out that our SAS flight to Stockholm had been cancelled (God know why) and we’d be catching a FinnAir flight that went to Helsinki when we changed in Chicago. Ooookay. That added 5 hours of travel time; an hour of flight time to Helsinki, a 3-hour layover, and a puddle-jumper to Stockholm. What could we do? We got on our American flight and changed at O’Hare which is a zoo. I almost got busted for drugs because I’d forgotten to empty my water bottle. “Do have anything you don’t want me to know about?” asked the suspicious TSA agent. I said ‘no’ and she pulled out my water bottle. I explained that I’d forgotten about the water but that I wanted to keep the bottle. Bless her heart, she offered to empty the bottle and give it back. And, of course, I expressed my sincere thanks. We took the tram to the international terminal and got through customs. The flight was nine hours long, but we had the extra-large seats and the row entirely to ourselves. We were given good, basic food. We got blueberry juice for breakfast. Blueberries grow in Scandanavia, so they’re used in everything. The juice was a little sweet for me, but the color was great. I have no complaints about FinnAir. Everything was new, clean, and as comfortable as a flight can be. We couldn’t go anywhere in Helsinki, not enough time, but the puddle-jumper was on time. It was packed but only took 45 minutes. When we got to Stockholm, Viking hired a Mercedes taxi to take us directly to the ship. That was their way of smoothing feathers due to the botched flights. Not their fault, I suppose, but we didn’t get to see anything of Stockholm that day due to all the delays. We met up with an old high school/band buddy of Gordon’s, Bill, and his wife, Dawn. for dinner that night. I think. I’d been traveling for over 24 hours and was exhausted. I went to bed early but was up at 2:30 a.m. Stockholm time. I discovered an old TV series called Limitless. I really liked it–for a while anyway. It put me back to sleep. So every time I couldn’t sleep I’d turn on Limitless. Worked like a charm. I’d fall asleep in different places so I had to repeat episodes. It took me the entire two weeks to get through the series but I made it. It’s on Paramount+ now. Check it out.

The next day we toured the palace and a theater that was built for the royals in the 1700s. Sweden didn’t have much money back then, so the palace is concrete painted to look like marble. It was a nice enough palace. The gardens looked like a small Versailles, but the theater was particularly interesting to me. The stage was deep and steeply raked. The flats were wooden and painted. They still had a lightning machine, a rain machine, and a thunder machine in the pit. Historic costumes from various productions were on display. I thought it was a great tour. We took a boat from the palace back to the ship. We met Pat and Linda, a couple from San Diego. Pat was a retired percussionist and he told us about playing in the pit for touring shows and for the San Diego Symphony. They were fun. We had a quiet afternoon, and a pleasant dinner with Bill and Dawn. Then we went to a show in the Star Theater. If I remember correctly the talent was two boys and two girls doing a medley of something or other. It was a pleasant day, but I resented missing seeing any of Old Town Stockholm. Everybody told us it was wonderful. We went to bed, and I watched another episode of Limitless. I was starting to get seriously tired.

The next day we went to a small town on a small island called Mariehamn which means Marie’s harbor. Marie was queen of something or other. All the royals were starting to run together in my mind. We got a tour of the island. It reminded me of parts of the Midwest–with water. It was Sunday so all the shops were closed. The historic church we stopped at didn’t want us inside. They were getting ready for the service so you can’t really blame them. I peeked in anyway. Old, old, old. Think it was built in the 1100s. Electricity had been included (a silo sort of thing attached to the exterior) so there were chandeliers instead of candles. I was puzzled by a ship hanging in between the chandeliers but couldn’t ask anybody about it. Then we were taken to the top of a hill to enjoy the views. We got the scrambled history of the place. I think that’s where the spoken language is Swedish, but the island was given to Finland after World War II. God knows why. It was lovely but Viking could have skipped Mariehamn for all I cared but

I think Gordon and I had a hot dog as a late lunch and skipped dinner, but my memory is hazy. I still wasn’t sleeping well and running around a lot is hard on an old lady. At breakfast I explained to Dawn about my sleeping difficulties (she’s a retired nurse) and she gave me magnesium pills. I tried them that night and they worked like a charm. I slept for 6 1/2 straight hours. I only got to watch one episode of Limitless but I was refreshed and looking forward to the next day at sea. No tour!

Stockholm Palace from the boat
Mariehamn Medieval Church

Learning Manners

I haven’t been able to write anything coherent lately due to life getting in the way but here’s a flash fiction story I wrote years ago. It was a winner of the “Will Write for Food” contest put on by the Southern California Writers’ Association. We were given a picture and instructed to write a 250-word story inspired by it. Following is the picture and the story I came up with.

Learning Manners

            In 1969, I was a rebellious teenager. So my parents, deciding that I needed to learn appreciation for them and civilization, sent me to stay with my grandfather in the mountains. He didn’t even have TV. The first week, Grandpa put me to work in his vegetable garden. Next to the garden was an old sign that was a thesaurus of verbs warning people to stay off the plants. I hadn’t seen another person for a week, so I asked Grandpa why it was there. Grandpa was cleaning his shotgun at the time.

            “Well,” he said finally, “I had a young feller used to run through my property. I asked him nice not run in my garden, but he said he wasn’t running, he was jogging. Every time he ran through my garden, he said something sassy. So, I put up my sign and added the word. Just to let him know I was paying attention, you see.” Grandpa paused, inserted two shells in the shotgun, and snapped it shut. “Well, when I ran out of room for words on the sign, I peppered him with my gun here.”

            I stared at Grandpa, horrified.

            Grandpa grinned. “I didn’t use buckshot,” he assured me. “Just rock salt. But it got the young feller’s attention. Which brings me to you. Your mama asked if I could teach you some manners. You think I should?”

            I mended my fractious ways. I didn’t want Grandpa teaching me manners.

George Died Today

My cat, George, died today.

Sixteen years and four months ago we went to the Burbank animal shelter to find a kitten to keep Duhgie company. Nellie had died a month before and we were all lonesome. We decided we’d get a female kitten. We hoped Duhg would react better to a female. So, we toured the facility. In one cage was a mother cat who’d been brought to the shelter and had given birth to five kittens. The kittens were now about 8 weeks old and ready for adoption, so we picked out a pretty little black & white girl. But kittens are like potato chips to Gordon; he can’t have just one. “We can’t expect a kitten to handle Duhg all by herself,” he declared. “We should take one more.” A fuzzy little black & white kitten stared up at us curiously during the discussion. He seemed the bravest of the bunch, so we took him, too. And, of course, he was named Curious George. Gordon was in an Albee frame of mind, so he named the female Martha. I thought it was an unpleasant play, so I shortened the name to Marta. And our family was complete for a while.

Duhg never grew to like the kittens and he died two years later–mostly out of spite, I think. We still had the tuxedo twins, so we were happy. Marta died from unknown causes when she was almost 11 so we got another kitten so George wouldn’t be alone. I think he would have preferred the solitude, but Gracie was here to stay.

George was my buddy. He sat next to me on the couch as I wrote. He slept on my side of the bed. And he always got what he wanted. If he didn’t care for the food offering, he’d politely stick one claw into my leg to get my attention. The claw treatment would be repeated until he got something he liked. He eventually weighed 18 pounds from all that food. He had huge teeth and claws, but he never used them in anger against us–just to get better food. And no matter how many times you changed the water in his bowl, he preferred the downstairs toilet. He waited until I flushed, (he liked a fresh bowl) then he’d be butt-up in the toilet like a drunken frat boy. He protected the house from raccoon incursions. He’d sit at the cat door, hissing and spitting, and if a raccoon nose appeared he’d swipe at it with those big claws. One night a coyote was sniffing at the cat door. I turned on the light to see and Georgie charged out the cat door, tail up and fluffy, ears back. He chased that coyote across the backyard and over the fence. When he didn’t come back, I thought the coyote had a well-marbled cat snack and I went into mourning. But 15 minutes later, Georgie sauntered back into the house, looking very pleased with himself. I didn’t know whether to hug him or bellow at him so, I did both. “You could have been killed!” I screeched as I hugged him. “That coyote would eat you!” George just purred. He’d protected his house. He was my brave, brave boy.

He also brought new vernacular into the house. He had long hair on his “pants” and in his early days feral cats would literally scare the crap out of him. We called it having a case of “stinky butt” and I’d throw him in the shower with Gordon to get cleaned up. Georgie would look at me piteously as if asking, “Why are you doing this to me?” But he never raised a claw. Maybe he appreciated the bath.

George left giant pawprints on the stairwell walls for us to remember him by. When he felt frisky, he’d tear up and down the stairs And, of course, he never used the steps; he careened off the walls. He left Sasquatch prints all over. And he knew when the luggage came out, he was going to be alone with Gracie for a while. So, he peed all over an unguarded suitcase. I didn’t know a cat could have that much pee in him. He drowned that suitcase. I learned to hide the luggage. He also insisted on having an indoor cat box that was exclusively his (Gracie goes outside–she lived a rough life before she came to us so she can handle peeing outdoors). And his box had to be clean. If it wasn’t, he’d pee on the dirty clothes pile. Message received. I cleaned his box.

He was the most beautiful cat we’ve ever had. He was my Gorgeous George, a good, noble cat. And now he’s gone. I had him for 16 years and four months–and it still doesn’t seem like enough time. Already we’re feeling the chasm he left. No one is giving me ‘The Claw’ to get a treat or different food. No one is sitting next to me and purring. No one is parked facing his food bowl, waiting for something he likes, and clogging traffic. He was spoiled rotten and could be so annoying. But I want him back. And I can’t have him.

There’s a hole in my heart. And it’s bleeding.

The Lehman Trilogy

Gordon and I left early for the Ahmanson Theater last night. We presented our vaccination and booster cards and photo ID to get our wristband first so we could tour the plaza and enjoy a glass of wine before the show. All the restaurants that used to be on the plaza had closed for the pandemic. Even the hotdog stand on Grand Ave. The wine bar sold sandwiches but we just got drinks. The video screens on the plaza showed people coming up the escalator for the theaters. It was good to be back. Hope more restaurants open up soon.

The Lehman Trilogy started at 7:30 because it had a 3 1/2 hour running time. I was dreading it. I can manage 2 hours of whining and Leftist political propagandizing (seems to be what’s produced these days), but 3 1/2 hours? Thank God, I was wrong. The play is adapted from a novel by an Italian, Stefano Massini, and is about the founding of Lehman Brothers Financial Institution. It wasn’t a denunciation of capitalism; it was an admiring account of immigrant success in the United States. I didn’t think that was allowed anymore. According to this account, the Lehman brothers contributed to the creation of most of the financial institutions we know today. Some of the family even became the politicians who placed regulations in place to stop of the worst excesses of those institutions. This German-Jewish family had an enormous impact on the development of the United States. The play starts with the Lehman brothers emigrating from Germany and starting out in Alabama in the 1840s. They first opened a store that sold fabric and became cotton factors. They survive the Civil War and create financial institutions to resurrect Alabama–all while making a profit, of course. Nobody works for free, do they? They end up in New York because that’s where big finance is. We watch their financial rise and family interactions over the decades. By the time the business went bankrupt in 2008, no Lehmans were involved in it. So, the bankruptcy was just a footnote. But the story was fascinating. The adaption by Ben Power was brilliant. As was the staging. And I can’t say enough about the three actors who performed for 3 hours (with two intermissions; they probably needed a rest) –and held my attention. Simon Russell Beale, Adam Godley, and Howard W. Overshown played the original brothers. They also played women, children, plantation owners…basically, they played whatever character was needed. Wow. It was a master class in acting. Most Los Angeles audiences tend to leave after two hours but I didn’t see anybody walk out–or not show up after either intermission. It was engrossing. Well done.

So, for an evening of brilliant theater, go see The Lehman Trilogy. I don’t know how much longer it’s running at the Ahmanson.

December Fun

After going 20 months without any entertainment, we went to three venues last week. Tuesday, we saw the opening night of A Christmas Carol at the Ahmanson Theater. It was an adaptation of Dicken’s original story. I figured we’d get the full ‘woke’ treatment–although how they could ‘woke’ it up any more than it was originally, is beyond me–but they surprised me. In the novella everybody is after Scrooge’s money. I always thought the people begging for money would have done better to get jobs and give their own money away. It’s pointed out that Scrooge supports the workhouses (the charitable institution of the day). It’s really not his fault that they’re horrible places. But apparently only his money will save people. I don’t blame him for hiding out and hanging on to his cash. That’s all people wanted from him. In this play they move away from separating Scrooge from his money. They explain how his life was impacted by a greedy, abusive father. All of his anti-social behavior is caused by that early bad treatment. This play is about healing Scrooge not bankrupting him. Refreshing take. The performances were satisfactory for the most part. I loved the Christmas carols the performers sang throughout and I LOVED the bell choir. Even Tiny Tim got his own bell to ring and the last note of the evening. I liked the fragmented stage setting that allowed the action to proceed without pause. I thought the lighting design should have gotten an award (maybe it did). Victorian lanterns were suspended all through the theater. Also loved the special effects. ‘Snow’ (shaved dry ice?) was blown across the audience. It really felt like a snow fall and set the mood. After the show we were treated to hot chocolate, Victorian carol singers, and more snow in the plaza. Lots of fun. Only one problem about the production. TV actors were used, and they played for a camera, not a large house like the Ahmanson. This was Ritchie’s last production and it reminded me of his first production twenty years ago. He used TV actors then, too, and I had the same problem. TV and stage are different disciplines, and the actors need to adjust. (‘Sing out, Louise!’) In that production, the LA Times went nuts over the above-ground swimming pool on the set. ‘It’s never been done before!’ Guess they’ve never been to the Valley or New Jersey. Every double-wide has an above-ground pool. I think Lefties need to get out more. Here’s hoping the next director is more interested in art than propaganda. And if he/she wants to do agit-prop, get some good stuff.

Wednesday, we went to Hollywood to see The Band’s Visit at the Dolby. I didn’t know anything about the play. I thought it was probably a rock musical. Nothing of the sort. It’s about an Egyptian police band trying to get to a city in Israel to perform at an Arabic Art Center. The Egyptians don’t speak Hebrew and the Israelis don’t speak Arabic. So, they converse in English which neither group is very good at. The Egyptians end up in a small town and are stuck there for a night until the next bus comes. The residents complain that nothing happens in their small town, but they take in the Egyptians for the night. There’s only once instance of anti-Arabic sentiment but that’s only one aspect of the play. People complain there’s nothing to do? They confess extra-marital affairs, broken hearts, marital troubles….lots of drama. The Egyptians confide about unfortunate things in their lives. Everybody stumbles along in English, but they understand each other and become friends. There’s hope for peace in the Mideast. Loved all the performers but it’s the musicians who really stand out. Amazing talent. It’s a sweet musical that runs without intermission, so pee before you go.

Friday, we got tickets for Disney Hall. We were treated to a free cocktail in the 3rd story garden. I enjoyed some sparkling wine under the trees as we observed the lights of the city. Then we went inside to hear the end of the lecture before the concert began. The first half of the program was devoted to ‘new’ music. I settled back for some ‘clank-tinkle’ moments but the first piece, Primal Message by Nokuthula Endo, was melodic. I enjoyed it. The second piece, Woven Loom, Silver Spindle by Julia Adolphe, gave me my ‘tinkle’ moment but I liked it. Interesting. Both women composers were there to take their bows with Xian Zhang, the woman conductor. It was an evening for women. Good of us. But my main reason for being at the concert was Beethoven’s 7th. I was curious how an Asian woman would interpret Western music. Very well. Xian focused on small moments between the flute and oboe that I’d never noticed before. And the 4th movement was fast but controlled. Normally, it sounds like the musicians will have heart attacks galloping through it. This wasn’t rushed. As I said, it was fast, but the legato made it, well, not nuts. Really enjoyed the interpretation. That tiny Asian woman was in complete control of the orchestra. Good concert.

And now we don’t have any shows until January. Good. I need to get through Christmas. That’s as much entertainment as I need for a while.