Month: June 2024

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Venice, Italy

Our ship had to dock about an hour and a half away from Venice. Apparently, all the cruise ships roiled the water around the city so much they worried about being swamped so big cruise ships can no longer lock anywhere near the city. We took a boat shuttle. It was a nice ride. We got to see lots of islands and the guide described life around the lagoon. We docked about 5 minutes from St. Mark’s Square and got ready to follow our lollipop-wielding guide. I no longer felt stupid about following the lollipop around. It meant I got to skip the long lines to the Doge’s Palace. We’d signed up for a tour called Secrets of the Doge’s Palace. We started in the dungeon. The guide showed us the cells and the torture chamber. That was creepy. The guide said the only person who escaped from the dungeons was Casanova. Apparently, his sexual escapades offended the local officials so they locked him up. But since he was a noble he got to wear his rich clothing. The story goes that he and an imprisoned priest, who was locked up for having three children (big no-no for someone who’s supposed to be celibate), traded tools and helped each other dig out to the corridor. Then they walked out the front door after convincing the guard that they’d been locked in after hours by mistake. Talk about chutzpa. Interesting side bit: the Doge’s office was above the dungeon. It was very plain. He was there to conduct business not to be in luxurious surroundings. Our politicians could learn something here. We ended the official tour in the public areas. The art was spectacular. The building was smaller than Versailles but every bit as impressive. The guide cut us loose for free time and Gordon and I inspected the armory exhibit and marveled over the public rooms again. Then we got lost. Somehow we got back in the dungeons and couldn’t find our way out. We passed over the Bridge of Sighs—from the inside which was not encouraging. . We followed the signs and walked and walked. I commented to Gordon that it was like being in Ikea. He said, “No Swedish meatballs.” True. We finally found the bookshop so we knew the end was near and, after a few more twists and turns, we found our way out. I needed a break so we found a restaurant in St. Mark’s square. Gordon ordered a sandwich that came with a basket cover. We were told it was to keep the pigeons from fighting him for his sandwich. Apparently, they’re quite aggressive. I ordered an amaretto with a water back. Having an aperitif on St. Mark’s Square as I observed the (other) tourists was on my bucket list and I can cross that one off. We caught the shuttle back to the ship and took a nap before dinner. There was no show that evening because we were supposed to pack and get ready for departure the next day. We said “Goodbye” to Billy and Dawn at dinner. They’d been on a week-long cruise of Greek islands before we got there, and they were ready to go home. Besides, Dawn said they’d been to Venice about five times, so they didn’t need to see it again. They were fun people to tour with. Independent and no drama. Gordon and I went back to our suite, packed, and had our luggage outside our door by 10 pm, per instructions. I was going to miss that suite.

Next day, we had breakfast and got on our shuttle by 9. We took the 1 ½ hour shuttle and were dropped off at the Hilton Hotel. I was afraid we’d be wandering around like lost souls for a few hours because it was too early to check in but by the time we got to the front desk it was noon. They told us our room was ready so we got to check in early, thank God. I don’t remember doing much for the rest of the day. We walked around Hilton area and inspected the hotel. We found some restaurants within walking distance but we ended up having dinner at the hotel. The food was good. We had early night.

We took the boat across the lagoon next for St. Mark’s Square again. We thought about touring St. Mark’s cathedral, but the lines were around the block. Besides, we were burnt out on cathedrals. They’re all lovely but they sort of blur in my memory after a while. We spent the day shopping. I found some earrings and a Medoran (I think that’s what it’s called. It’s one of the islands that make glass) glass necklace that I initially bought as a Christmas tree ornament. I found an actual ornament closer to the Rialto Bridge. We split a calzone for lunch at one of the little shops and enjoyed gelato. That area is a great place to shop if you can find your way out. Thank God I had Gordon; I’d still be wandering around if it weren’t for him. A British couple stopped us at one point. They were lost and Gordon seemed to know where he was going. He told them how to get back to St. Mark’s Square and everybody was happy. We took another way back to St. Mark’s Square to check out the cathedral again. The lines were even longer, if possible, so we took a break for another drink. That’s my kind of touristing. We bought tickets for a boat tour down the Grand Canal before taking a boat back to the hotel to drop off our loot and to take another nap. Gittin’ old ain’t for sissies. Then we took another boat shuttle across the lagoon for our motor boat trip which was an adventure in itself. The shuttle would get close to the dock and we were supposed to hop off. There was a lot of turbulence in the lagoon due to all the small boats, so the dock bobbed one way and the boat bobbed another. And I bobbed in the middle somewhere, trying not to fall in the drink. One of the dock workers was prepared; he grabbed my hand and pulled me on the dock before I could fall. Thank God. We’d discussed taking a gondola tour (it looks so romantic!) but it took two hours and we don’t have the attention span—or the romance, frankly. I can look lovingly into Gordon’s eyes for maybe five minutes but two hours? Nope. Our motorboat trip was lovely and it only took an hour. We went back to the hotel for an early night. We had to be up by three the next morning to catch the boat shuttle to the airport. We got to the airport so early, the VIP lounge was just setting up. But we had coffee and a roll with some fruit and that’s was plenty. Our flight was non-stop from Venice to Los Angeles, and I slept most of the way. I love business class. No swollen ankles or exhaustion after that long flight. We got home at about 2 in the afternoon. I thought Maggie would disappear for a day. That’s my punishment. But when she heard my voice, she blasted in through the cat door, mewing constantly. I had to pick her up and she wouldn’t let me put her down for about ten minutes. Nice to know she missed me. Also nice to know she didn’t pout at me. Interesting little cat.

It was a great trip and I recommend it highly. We’ve been talking to Billy and Dawn about another trip. Think we’re going to tour the British Isles; Billy’s family comes from England, Gordon has Scottish ancestry, and I’m half Irish . Looking forward to it. Gordon and I have to do this stuff while we can still walk. Although we probably won’t pay for a suite. I’m too cheap. On the other hand, who’ve we got to leave it to? I’m reviewing the situation…

Ceiling in the Doge’s palace

Courtyard of the Doge’s Palace

St. Mark’s Cathedral. TOO many people in line.

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Dubrovnik and Split Croatia

The next stop was Dubrovnik, Croatia. Dubrovnik is an ancient walled city surrounded by mountains and the sea. Very picturesque. Our guide explained the history of the place and the fact that very few people live in the old part of the city. For one thing, it’s inundated with tourists. For another, I don’t think they allow the residents to modify their apartments so electrical and plumbing must be a problem. The guide said she lives outside the walls, and it takes her 20 minutes to get to work at her summer job of being a guide. I think she said she taught French at the university during the winter months. Sounds a lot like the US. She talked about the 1991 war but didn’t explain what it was about. She just said that it was started by the Montenegrins who come over to apologize every now and then. She said she was too young to really remember much about it but there are still lots of hard feelings. We toured the Franciscan monastery and apothecary, the world’s oldest working pharmacy. Then she cut us loose for private time. We wandered the streets which are geared for tourists. Game of Thrones was filmed in Dubrovnik and there are shops dedicated to the series. One of the shops even had a copy of the Iron Throne. I thought about having my picture taken with it but it looked really uncomfortable. We kept seeing signs (in English!) telling about the 1991 war. The signs mostly were reminiscences of the day the war started. The bombing started at 5 a.m. without warning and caused a lot of damage. Maps showed what had been destroyed but never said what started the war. So we googled it. When Tito died some of the countries who’d been forced into one country called Yugoslavia wanted independence. The centralists didn’t want to let them go. So what is now Montenegro bombed what is now Croatia. There aren’t many signs of the war left. It’s a beautiful country. And they love Hollywood.

We went back to the ship and Gordon joined me by the pool but we didn’t stay long. We played Trivia and got our butts kicked. An English bunch next to us listened to us argue and took our answers. They also ‘corrected’ our paper and said some of our right answers were wrong. Stupid way to win a stupid game but I was glad the colonists revolted in 1776. And I know why, too. Bloody buggers.

Dinner was a seafood buffet on the forward deck, and we met Billy and Dawn there. I loved the food, but Gordon went to the world café and got food there. He’s’ not a lobster, shrimp, or crab lover. He asked for milk again and, again, the staff thought he was nuts. But they brought him a glass of milk—over ice. It was a lovely night outside.

Next day we toured the town of Split, one of the oldest cities in Croatia. We toured the ancient Roman palace of Emperor Diocletian. The subterranean chambers were originally used for storage, I think (they’re very cool) but most recently they were used as the dragons’ den in Game of Thrones. We enjoyed the ruins of the palace and were let loose for private time. Gordon and I went to the area the guide called the upscale shopping district. It’s where the locals shop. There was some nice stuff but nothing I couldn’t live without. My problem was I kept setting off the alarm. I set it off going into the store. I obviously hadn’t stolen anything, so the security guy waved me through. Unfortunately, when I came out, I set off the alarm again. People came running but the guard just said, “Oh, it’s you. It’s okay.” And waved me on. We stopped at the town square for a coffee and a rest. I liked watching life as the locals live it. Very civilized. No muggings, no shootings, no riots. I could get used to it.

After a light dinner, Gordon and I went to the last show onboard. They did a Beatles medley. I enjoyed the light show and the musicians, but the singers? Meh. The girls weren’t bad. Not much stage presence but not bad but the two boys? Very pitchy. I expected better. I compared them to the entertainment on our American Queen Mississippi cruise. Extraordinary talent. Americans may not have ancient history, but we can put on a show. We went to bed right after the show. We had a tour of Venice the next day.

Well in the courtyard of the Franciscan monastery in Dubrovnik

This is us being tired tourists in the courtyard of Split

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Katakolon, Corfu, and Kotor

Our next excursion was to Katakolon, the site of the original Olympic games. Apparently, the site was buried under centuries of silt and debris from floods. They’re still digging it out. We saw the original training and barracks areas. There are altars to the various gods and the markers for the 100 meter dash. Some of the tourists ran the dash and those of us who climbed the hillside cheered them on. We were also shown the site where the contemporary Olympic flame is lit. I thought they’d start the flame at one of the altars, but they direct a lens on some kindling in a spot on the gravel road. I didn’t see anything special about the area but that’s where they do it. They even have a second flame just in case the original flame goes out as it travels around the world. We were lectured about the foliage in the area then we were turned loose for our free time. Gordon and Billy headed for the museum, but Dawn and I walked to Katakolon to shop. Our guide explained that the shops didn’t open until the cruise ships anchored. Tourists are the lifeblood of the town so everybody speaks English. I found a leather purse I wanted but couldn’t find my wallet. I freaked out, of course, but Dawn calmed me down. She even paid for the purse. I paid her back in American dollars, but I worried about my wallet. When we got back to the ship I hurried to the safe where I found the wallet, safe and sound. What bothered me is: I didn’t remember putting it there. It was the smart thing to do but I seem to be losing my marbles. Not a comforting thought. I prefer to think that I was still jet-lagged. Yeah, that’s it: jet lag.

Gordon took a nap but I decided to take advantage of the pool on board. It was two strokes across for Gordon which explained his lack of interest in it but I was happy to paddle around or float. I wasn’t even embarrassed about being seen in a bathing suit. I may not be able to keep up with 25-year-old starlets but in the land of the over-the-hill gang I’m still a hot little trick. At least my skin doesn’t hang in folds. Gittin’ old ain’t pretty.

We met Dawn and Billy for dinner at the Chef’s Table on board that night. It was a seafood meal with paired wines for each course. I enjoyed it tremendously, but Gordon didn’t care for the sashimi course. He doesn’t eat bait. I do and I ate his too. Can’t waste a thing. Dinner ran long so we watched the evening’s entertainer from the TV in our suite. I think they had a piano player that night. He was good but I was tired. I slept through it.

We went to Corfu the following day. Prince Phillip was born there, and it seems like a nice place, but it was so crowded with my fellow tourists I didn’t really enjoy it. I remarked to Gordon on how clear the water was, and I appreciated seeing where the Durrells of Corfu was filmed but I got tired of fighting crowds. We toured some churches and shopped in the picturesque old town, but we decided to walk back to the ship instead of waiting for the shuttle. The guide said it was only a 15-minute walk. Maybe if I was a greyhound. It took us half an hour and we don’t walk slow. We had to go through customs, of course, before we were allowed on the pier. We took the afternoon off then met Billy and Dawn for dinner at The Restaurant on board. Excellent meal as usual but it took 2 ½ hours. We were dining European style. That meant we missed the entertainment. We watched from our room. It was a young woman comic/singer. She had a wonderful voice, but I didn’t think much of her comedy. Didn’t feel like I missed much.

We left Greece for Montenegro the next day. Montenegro gets its name (Black Mountain) from the firs growing on the surrounding hillside. There’s a 16-mile channel between the Adriatic and the town of Kotor which was known as a ship building center in the Middle Ages. Kotor looks like it’s surrounded by mountains because of the turning of the channel. The guide told us it’s the longest fjord south of Scandinavia. I liked Kotor better than Corfu. It’s a beautiful walled city. And it’s not as crowded. The city is doing well. I wondered if life under the Russians was difficult, but the guide said Tito protected them. She sounded wistful about the Tito days. We went back to the ship because we had a concert later that afternoon at St Nicholas’ church farther down the coast. We took a boat to the site and were met by our guide who referred to us as ‘good and beautiful people’ in a Boris and Natasha accent. He told lots of jokes, some funny, but was basically a kick. We toured the church and were treated to champagne before the concert began. The two artists were guitar players who specialized in local music. They were excellent and got a richly deserved standing O. Then we boated home. We weren’t very hungry, so we went to the 24-hour World Café on board. It was another early night in our delightful suite. I could learn to love traveling like this.

Barracks ruins at Olympia

Me in full-tourist regalia in Corfu. The water was so clear!

I think this was a church at Kotor. they all started to look alike after a while. That’s what happens on whirl-wind tours.