Mississippi Cruise–Part 2

We went to the small cafe on the second deck for breakfast instead of fighting for food in the Main Dining Room. We thought it might be easier. All I wanted was an English muffin and coffee. They brought me a muffin but when I asked for butter and jam (always a Butter Battle!) they assured me it was on the way, then promptly forgot about me. I begged for butter three times before they finally brought it. Then I had to repeatedly beg for jam. The muffin was stone cold at this point. And I hadn’t even gotten to asking for a refill on the coffee. The manager finally noticed that I was getting increasingly unpleasant so we brought a fresh muffin WITH BUTTER AND JAM! Hallelujah! I was so worn out I didn’t even ask for more coffee. There was a room called Perks that provided coffee, cookies (sometimes) and soft serve ice cream. I always got my coffee there.

We toured St. Franceville later that morning. Actually, we just drove through it but we got to see some lovely period churches and homes. We drove past sugar can fields on the way to the next mansion. The guide explained that these fields were only a few months old so the cane was short. In 3 to 5 years the cane would be over my head and ready to be harvested. I’d seen mature cane fields on Maui so this was new to me. The guide also explained where the term Cajun came from. Acadia in Eastern Canada was taken over by the British and the French Acadians refused to turn Protestant. They stayed Catholic so the Brits booted them. They wandered around until they landed in what became Louisiana. They were called Acadians, Acajuns, and finally just Cajuns. They had their own version of French which was taken away; the guvmint insisted they learn English. Cajun French is now being taught in school to keep it alive.

The mansion we toured was called Rosedown. It was built in the 1830s and stayed in the family until the 1950s. It was a beautiful place but the story was sad. The daughters inherited the property and lived in a few rooms on the ground floor. They had an outdoor pump for water. No indoor plumbing or kitchen. The story reminded of the Beauvoir women living in Gray Gardens (is that right?) on Long Island. Grand house but living in poverty. The Rosedown sisters sold eggs to pay the taxes but the house decayed around them. The mansion has been restored and is lovely. Nice tour. We skipped the tour of Angola Prison. I’m sure it was educational but I didn’t want to spend $150 to go to prison. We listened to a lecture on the boat by the “Riverlorian” (his word). He gave an hour lecture about the Mississippi River. Interesting. We took a short nap, then fought the dinner battle. Not only was being served a problem, they expected us to sit at the same tables every night. I enjoyed the two ladies from Falls Church but Horrible Henry from Florida was a trial. We thought we lost him after two nights because he found another table but he showed up like a bad penny the last two evenings. We got really good at ignoring him but I didn’t like being stuck in the same place. Gordon prefers meeting new people and I prefer avoiding people like Horrible Henry. The only good thing about being stuck is they had Gordon’s glass of milk waiting by his plate every evening. I couldn’t get butter to save my life but Gordon always had milk. I should have made HIM ask for butter; we’d probably have gotten it. Anyway, we finished up the evening in the theater. The staff did an hour of Broadway show tunes. They were really good. We skipped going to the bar afterward. Gordon doesn’t drink and I was tired of people.

For some reason the boat didn’t stop at Baton Rouge. We went directly to Natchez. I’ll talk about that later. I’ve written enough.

Rosedown Plantation

Mississippi Cruise

Gordon and I had to re-schedule our Baltic cruise (again) but we were tired of being locked down in California so we booked a Mississippi cruise. We flew into New Orleans at 3 on a Saturday afternoon. The airport looked brand new and I suppose it had to be re-built after Hurricane Katrina. We took the shuttle to the Hilton and got a running commentary from the driver about how high the water had gotten during Katrina. Recovery from Katrina is still a big topic, especially with the tourists. We all watched it play out on TV. If the USA had a Walk of Disasters, Katrina would probably be included. Anyway, we got to our hotel and checked in with the tour company. We had to take one more COVID test (had to take one three days before the cruise started, I thought all the testing was redundant but the company was probably trying to avoid lawsuits). We took our nap and tried to find someplace for dinner. We tried to get into the Commodore’s Palace in the Garden District but they were booked. Most of the best places were booked because it was graduation weekend and everybody wanted to celebrate. Gordon got on Yelp and we finally managed to get into a highly recommended restaurant called ReBirth. And it was only four blocks from the hotel. We had to eat at the bar but that was fine; I’m more comfortable at a bar. We had four people with us watching the bartender burn something to make a drink. I almost got holes in my shirt but it was interesting. And I’m glad we couldn’t get into the other places because the food was spectacular. We shared gumbo and a salad then we each got our own fish entree. Delicious. I’ll go back if we ever get to NOLA again. We took a short stroll by the river on the way back to the hotel then died. It’d been a long day. The company fed us at the hotel the next morning but then Gordon and I took off on our own. We walked the five blocks to the Cafe du Monde for beignets but the crowd was blocks long. We checked three other beignet places in the French Quarter but all the lines were too long. Even the line in Starbucks on Canal Street was long. We gave up. We took a riding tour of New Orleans at noon. They took us to one of the above-ground graveyards and explained how the plots worked. I’d never seen anything like it. They took us to Lake Pontchartrain and showed where the levee failed. I didn’t know that the levee to the Gulf of Mexico did it’s job, it was the levee to the lake that failed and flooded the town. It’s a huge lake. Looked like an ocean to me. They drove us through the Garden District so we could enjoy the houses. Then they took us to the city park. I’d never heard of it but it’s full of art installations and family attractions. And they took us to a Cafe du Monde without a line! We finally got our cafe au laits and beignets. And they were delicious. The bus got us back in time to catch our boat, the American Countess. We’d been in New Orleans 24 hours and it felt like a month. The boat looked liked a paddlewheel. I don’t think they got much propulsion from the paddle but it looked great. We practiced an emergency drill then they let us go for dinner. And that began my Battle of the Butter. The food was good, the wine selections were great, but they were understaffed   And the CDC had some bizarre serving rules that made what staff there were work harder. We were always the last served (seemed like) and nothing came when it should have. If we managed to snag a bun we couldn’t get any butter. I went through a week of begging for butter for my bun. Oh well, it gave me something to bitch about. We skipped the entertainment that night; we were tired. We sat on our veranda and played Huck Finn, watching the river drift by in the moonlight. It was neat.

Honeybun

Nottoway